Home Blog Page 2

Food for survival


When one thinks of survival food the thought always goes to the freeze-dried or to other disgusting “pastrugni” and in fact it is quite realistic as a supposition. However, many times we find ourselves bewildered or confused to which foods to choose to be included in Bug Out Bags or EDCs. So what are the alternatives for survival food and the so-called “long life food storage” (ie our stocks)?

The types
To try to make things easier, we divide into 3 classes of needs and requirements:

  • Food for E.D.C. (Every Day Carry)
  • Food for B.O.B. (Bug out bag / 72h backpack)
  • Food for L.L.F.S. (Long life food storage)

It is assumed that for an EDC kit, which is therefore very light and transportable on a daily basis, it is sufficient to face a drop in sugar or a reintegration of mineral salts and proteins. Therefore, you do not need a complete meal as you might need in a Bug Out Bag. In this case, more than a meal you can talk about a snack to calm the symptoms mentioned above.

In addition to this, the c.d. “Ration Pack” must be ultra-light and compact, have a good supply of sugar, proteins and must not require neither water nor cooking to require excessive consumption of water for the consumption of the meal: if you are eating a dry, chewy or too concentrated food, it will be spontaneous to drink and we will not always have water available.

Solution for the EDC Ration Pack

  • 2 energy bars with cereals, chocolate, dried fruit like the Enervit sport power time;
  • 2 Sachets of sugar;
  • 1 sachet of potassium / magnesium;
  • 1 bag of salt;

Optional: if there is a long-life packet available. It can be easily replaced with a small bottle of water, but surely the sachet is a bit ‘more “TactiCool”!


Food for BOB

Here, the calculation is a bit more complex. A very timely approach to estimating when “survival food” is needed is to calculate the caloric intake and consumption of personal energy by parameterizing the right equivalent in food. However, to avoid losing our mind in calculations and simulations, we take a more pragmatic approach. Let’s see specifically which foods and, above all, in which quantities, are necessary for the famous 72 hours. Needless to think about bringing two weeks’ stock into a Bug Out Bag. That said, if you have not yet done Buggin Out in 72 hours or your strategy is Buggin In or you have failed the evacuation plan, then you will have to improvise!

Solution for the BOB Ration Pack

Water: the usual 2 liters per day per person. However, I would like to point out that for 72 hours (3 days) are 6 liters per person and equivalent to 6kg container excluded. If you feel dared you can lower your supply to 4 liters and insert tablets and filters to make water, but you must be sure you can get the water.
Food: 3/4 packs of MRE or freeze-dried foods. 3 days for 3 meals a day are equivalent to 9 meals per person, as you are not a camel I doubt you can weigh the weight of crockery, dishes and voluminous wrappers. The optimal solution would be the MRE but they are a bit ‘difficult to find (not to mention the cost). Therefore freeze-dried foods could be the cheapest solution. However you will need extra water (about 1.5lt more), cooker, pot and cooking fuel, which translated is more weight.


Solution # 1: 3 MRE, 5 liters of water, 4 protein bars and 4 Beef Jerky;
Solution # 2: 3 lyophilized bags, 5 liters of water + 1 for cooking, 2 boxes of nrg5, 1 bag of cereals, 2 energy bars, dextrose tablets and condensed milk;
Solution # 3: 6 lyophilized bags, 6 liters of water + 1, 4 chocolate bars, dextrose tablets and condensed milk, peanut butter, 3 energy bars.
For the freeze-dried products there are two alternatives: opt for technical foods (such as those of the Mountain House) or choose risottos and other soups such as those of Knorr to be clear, available at normal supermarkets or purchased online. Solutions 2 and 3 require at least one container for cooking. A good alternative to the classic apprenticeship is the JetBoil, an excellent compact and very fast cooking system, but which unfortunately requires gas to operate.

Food for L.L.F.S.

Finally, we arrive at the last scenario hypothesized at the beginning of this article regarding survival food. With this acronym (LLFS) we mean “long-term food” and its storage. In this case it is not about rations to “take along” but it is presumed to find these foods in their Bug Out Location.

Here there is no measure to determine the exact quantities. The only possible limit is established by you, and it is how many provisions you succeed, or have succeeded, in storing and storing.
The ideal would be to choose foods that can be easily stored with very long shelf life (cereals), cereals, flour and canned food, as well as the inevitable water that must be treated. Attention to the canned food, for the botulino question that we will elaborate in a second moment.

To preserve these foods, special containers and aluminum bags are needed to prevent oxygen and light from triggering the oxidation and decomposition processes. Also useful for our purpose are moisture and oxygen absorbers (here you can make a culture: oxygen absorbers).

Remember to also store seeds to grow your own food. Sooner or later your stocks will end and you will have to repack them as time passes. In detail, to store the seeds for a long time a temperature of around 5 ° C is needed (the refrigerator one to be clear), while for an “annual” storage it is sufficient to store them in a cool, dry room, for example, a cellar. Also in this case the rules of long-life foods are valid, therefore envelopes that isolate light and do not pass oxygen.

Long Life Food Storage Solution

Store your food with suitable containers and suitable additives;
Store canned goods and often check the expiration dates by turning in FIFO * (First In – First Out) all products avoiding to make them expire (everyone hates the wasteful!).
Properly stock the vegetable seeds, and useful plants such as medicinal plants.
Store enough water, write down the bottling date and renew your inventory every year.
* FIFO – The first product that is stored is also the first product to be consumed.

Fishing – surviving by feeding on fish



Fish, especially in areas of the sea and in the presence of rivers and lakes, are an important source of food not to be overlooked.

Fish is an excellent food, contains many proteins, is rich in vitamins and minerals, and has few fats. The fish also contains Omega-3.

They can be captured in different ways:

  • With bare hands: you can use this simple and primitive technique in a river. The technique consists of taking the fish from the bottom with two hands and throwing it towards the shore, once on the mainland it is necessary to immobilize it before it wriggles, the fish, is able to return to the water. Move and slowly and hold hands in the water doing very few movements, avoid projecting your shadow on the fish. You can also create a barrier and lead the fish towards it, in order to make the capture easier.

In the video a man catches trout with his hands.

  • With lances and harpoons: this technique is advisable in shallow waters and if there are many fish. The technique consists in keeping the lance on the surface of the water and when it passes a fish pierce it with a lightning movement (sometimes it takes hours to succeed if you are a beginner, do not lose heart!).

An excellent harpoon can be constructed by modeling the ends with teeth (see photo) in order to prevent the fish from escaping once captured.


  • With traps or with a net with these techniques we could catch fish in quantity without too much effort. If you have a net (if you have time you can also weave one) just place it in the water following the current of the river. We can also make traps to block inside the fish that end up inside (eg with cages, or with stones or large woods to divert the fish to areas of capture).
  • With hook and thread: the hook can be improvised with wire, bones, nails, safety pins, needles, clips, pins, buckle of the boot, etc … For the line are good laces, ropes, wire (that of nylon it would be ideal) even made with plant materials. This method is the most recommended for fishing at sea.


For the bait you can use: insects (winged ants and crickets), worms, small fish, larvae, entrails and shreds of animals (eg eyes).

The most used live baits are earthworms and carnaria caterpillars. You have to place them on the hook so that they can move freely, without killing them.

You can also use dead baits such as corn, fruit (eg grapes), bread, or some artisan pasta made from particularly strong ingredients such as cheese.

There are also artificial lures, which are not of animal origin but are made from materials and shaped with shapes that attract the fish towards them (eg fly, spoon or spinning bait). In survival you can use feathers, pieces of metal, colored fabrics, aluminum paper.


  • The fish are attracted to the shaded areas of the waterways.
  • Night fishing can be done with the use of a torch (it can be very fruitful).
  • Prefer fishing before the ALBA and immediately after the SUNSET.
  • You can attract the fish to your lance by applying to it a bait in the form of fish carved with cedar or willow wood.
  • In fishing it takes a lot of patience, especially if it is practiced with means of luck, do not be discouraged if you can not get results, try and try again and with the experience you will become better and better.
  • The best ones can also fish with bow and arrows.
  • Never eat the internal organs of fish.
  • If the method you used to fish gave you satisfactory results, always use that.


CLAMS:Gastereopodi (among the safest as a food source, can be found among the rocks and are easy to capture),patelle, buccini, littorine and abalone.

BIVALVES (such as clams, mussels, razor clams, scallops, canestrel, mussels, fasolaro, can be found on the rocks).

COMMON OCTOPUS: it is a cephalopod mollusk, it can be captured with a harpoon. Tents to hide among the rocks in depth.

ARTHROPODS:crustaceans: prawns, prawns, crabs, lobsters, lobsters, hermit crabs.

CIRRIPEDS: barnacles and barnacles.

ECHINODERMS: sea urchins.



In the Alaska rivers, pink salmon and real salmon can be caught. To capture them, you can make a double-pointed harpoon using a long, durable stick to which you have created two sharp points. To use the harpoon you have to push the salmon or fish in the shallow water to be able to put them on and then catch them with your hands. To do this, slam a stick or throw stones into the water to scare them and direct the fish to the desired place.

To fish, however, in deeper waters you will need hook, wire and bait.
If you find a frozen lake you can drill ice to try to fish deep.

Attach the hook on a 1 meter long rope and tie it to a stick that will fit on the hole. To prevent the entrance hole from freezing, you can place a pine branch in the hole.


In an island to find food you can try fishing, in this case you can build an excellent harpoon using bamboo, which is very durable and sharp. However, it is important to know the edible fish because in the tropical seas there are many poisonous and also some species also attack the man.

To fish you can use the poison contained in the roots of the Derris plants (involute and elliptica). Remember that the greener roots contain more rotenone (such venom is harmless to humans but the fish that come in contact die). When you dive to fish not too far from the coast there could be sharks, also stay away and not put your hands in the corners and in the fissures of the seabed could hide poisonous fish (moray eels) ready to attack; also watch out for jellyfish.


Anchovies or anchovies, sardines or sardines, eels, bogues, mackerel, sole, dairy, big head, mullet, sea bream, bass, mullet, grouper, squid, red snapper, cod, sea bream, glimpse, trout, salmon, roar, turbot, plaice, cuttlefish, octopus, squid, tuna, clams, mussels, razor, conger, hake, monkfish, platessa, biso, suro, gallinella, needlefish, swordfish, octopus, pagelli, dogfish, salpa, emery, herring, spiny , zanchette, oysters and fasolari.


Scorpion fish, tracery or spider fish (there are 9 species), parsnip, puffer fish, catfish, stone fish, lion and scorpion, jellyfish (among the most dangerous we remember the Sea Vespa), some species of conus.

Living off-grid


Have you ever thought how good it would be to live without having to look at the mailbox and feel a certain apprehension, in the hope of not finding a threatening looking white letter that reminds you that it is time to pay?


This term literally means off the grid, or “disconnected”.
The total self-sufficiency of an off-grid house allows total independence from any type of supply deriving from services provided by public or private bodies (water, gas, electricity, garbage, …)
Obviously, beautiful things are never easy to get: first of all we talk about costs.
Leaving aside the amortization of the investment, whose time horizon is very long, a completely independent and self-sufficient house is not a goal for all budgets.
There are those who start a little at a time, in part, through the purchase of solar panels and photovoltaics, or by exploiting other renewable energy. A second step can be the realization of an artesian well, with the hope, finally, of detaching completely from the system, from the famous “grid”.


Why live off the grid?

Imagine that one of the many SHTF or TEOTWAWKI scenarios is presented to us “dear”: we would be completely immune from any kind of immediate consequence. We would continue to be able to use electricity, have clean water and be able to warm up. We point out, this eventuality would be excluded in the event we are directly hit by a natural event (eg earthquake or flood) or when the voice of our self-sufficiency spreads. In this case, it is easy to understand that an optimal defense system would be advisable, even better if instead of a house it is a complex of houses, according to the theory of “unity is strength”.

Returning to the basic question, why live off the grid, I believe that the need to get away and above all, to detox from the modern consumerist / capitalist system, trying to play a healthier life and in harmony with nature is one of the reasons that pushes towards this Street; paved road of difficulty and compromise.
Switching from a hi-tech life, with a mobile phone, television, internet to one where books are sometimes the only source of entertainment is not easy. In my opinion, probably, we would be more focused on living fully real life rather than trying to get a perfect, but virtual ..

That said, I conclude this first article, asking you how many of you already have (or are starting) a home off the grid. Also, what problems did you face and how did you solve them? Write it down below in the comments!

The windchill and waterchill effects


The temperatures perceived by the human body do not always coincide with those recorded by environmental or meteorological thermometers. Factors such as air humidity, wind, the presence of water or sweat on the skin have the effect of altering our thermal perception, sending to the brain the so-called “perceived temperature” from the body, generally different from the absolute recorded temperature from thermometers.

Generally, humans have the ability to maintain a constant body temperature (around 36.5 degrees centigrade) producing sweat when the external environment becomes warmer and burning more calories when the air becomes colder. But what happens when the body heat is subtracted from the skin by the wind? In these cases we speak of windchill effect, which is a phenomenon that occurs when our body is subjected to a constant flow of air. In these conditions the temperature perceived by the body drops directly proportional to the wind speed and to the surface of the body in contact with the air.

More precisely, the windchill effect consists in the rate of heat loss by the body, and is dependent on the velocity of the air current that invests it. Try to blow on your hands: the skin, until then in a state of quiet, is suddenly hit by the jet of air which cools the skin by subtracting heat and producing that typical feeling of cool (or real cold) that we find in these cases. The windchill effect should not be underestimated if there is no suitable shelter or clothing available because, in extreme situations, prolonged exposure to air flow can lower the body temperature to such an extent that hypothermia, even when temperatures are not too low. The following table shows the effects of the windichill effect on the “perceived temperature” through the relationship between the air temperature and the wind speed. Choosing a temperature on the upper part of the table and choosing the wind speed on the left side, it is possible to cross the row and the chosen column to see the temperature perceived by the body:

As you can see from the table, if the air temperature was 0 ° and we were in the middle of an air flow of 20 km / h our body would perceive a temperature of -5 degrees. There are several tables that measure the windchill effect, each based on different considerations and values, but the true purpose of these measurements is not to accurately indicate the centigrade degrees perceived by the skin but to illustrate the incisive wind effect on the resistance of the body in nature.

The windchill effect should not be underestimated at all: a well-made and well-sheltered shelter is of no use if the opening were to be hit by a draft of air during the night! When looking for a good place for your camp, try to keep in mind the windchill effect by orientating its entry point towards a rock wall or some other natural barrier. In these cases it may be useful to keep one thing in mind: at night the air tends to cool, causing the warm air to rise upwards and the cold one to go downhill, thus causing a possible breeze coming from the mountain. and go down to the valley. To avoid being in the middle of a sudden nighttime air flow, try, as far as possible, to direct the entrance of your shelter towards the valley or at least to build an effective “entrance door” able to shelter you!

The windchill effect must also be kept in mind when choosing hiking gear. Garments such as sweatshirts and heavy coats may not be sufficient if they do not have good resistance to the penetration of the air stream between the fibers. To block the wind and prevent the loss of body heat in this way it is not necessary to increase the layers of clothes on the skin, but it is sufficient to choose the right fabric. A good windbreaker, however light and thin, can be much more efficient than a wool coat in keeping the body warm! The ideal rule would be to use insulating fabrics for the maintenance of body heat (wool or fleece) covered externally by a windbreaker able to avoid drafts in the inner layers, with the sleeves and the neck laced by tear or elastic closures .

In this regard, in the best hiking or mountaineering shops there are some machines able to produce wind at about 20km / h to be used to verify the effective capacity of the fabrics to block the advance of the air. Just drive them and place the fabric under examination between the air stream and their hands, verifying the true quality of the garment.

Very similar to the windchill effect, but much more dangerous, is the waterchill effect that causes the loss of body heat when the skin is in contact with water. The ability of water to remove heat from the skin is much more intense than that of the wind and can incur whenever we find ourselves with wet skin due to a sudden storm, a fall in water, a high humidity night or, more simply, because of sweaty clothes. Precisely for this reason it is absolutely necessary to try not to ever wet your clothes or choose little or no breathable fabrics as, in a few minutes of physical effort, we could find ourselves with clothes soaked in sweat.

Let’s try, now, to imagine the combined effect of windchill effect plus waterchill …. the effects on body temperature would be dangerous and disastrous, causing a loss of heat so fast to put us at risk of hypothermia.

If we ever find ourselves in emergency situations under heavy rain and strong winds, the priority would be to protect ourselves from the elements as quickly as possible and keep our clothes dry, at the cost of undressing and staying naked. As contrary to the common logic and instinct this move could make the difference between life and death by hypothermia!


Hiking clothing


In this article we will answer one of the most important questions about mountain life: how to dress during an excursion?

As often happens with questions of this type, however, the answer is: it depends.

There are plenty of things to keep in mind when evaluating the best clothing to wear during an excursion, namely:

The season of the year
The duration of the excursion (More days? Will you sleep outdoors?)
Weather conditions
The activities you plan to do (trekking, survival simulation, climbing etc …
Despite the various situations we may face, there are some basic rules that you can keep in mind so as not to get in trouble.

One of the most important rules is undoubtedly dressing “onion”, that is, using overlapping pieces of clothing rather than a single heavier layer.

This gives us the possibility to add or remove layers based on the temperature, physical effort and weather conditions that may arise.

Below we will see what are the classic components to wear during a winter hike:

Outer shell

With “outer shell” means all those light jackets used as the outer layer of our clothing. Essentially they consist of light, breathable, windproof, anti-tear and waterproof jackets. They have the important purpose of protecting the body from wind and water, while ensuring great mobility and resistance to tearing. As we will also see for the other layers, it is very important that the shell be breathable, so that the sweat of the body can evaporate, leaving us dry. A good outer shell is often made of Goretex or similar fabrics like the PowerTex (owned by the Salewa brand), which is a fabric that is able to evaporate body sweat while preventing the outside water from entering.


Underneath the outer shell it is often recommended to wear a heavy fleece jacket. The pile is famous for its high capacity to maintain the heat of the body, preventing it from being dispersed in the environment. Unlike the outer shell, the fleece does not need to be waterproof and tearproof, while it is very important that it is windproof and breathable. There are stacks for all budgets, but it is important to prefer one of quality with one inexpensive. This is because the poor quality batteries are generally non-breathable, and do not resist well to the wind, exposing the wearer to lose much heat in the presence in ventilated environments. Moreover, non-quality fabrics tend to stink if they are wet or if they are impregnated with sweat.


the microfleece is a garment with the same characteristics of the fleece, but with a reduced thickness and a shape more adherent to the body. It is an excellent piece of clothing between the outer fleece and the shirt / shirt below. It too must be breathable, to prevent it from getting wet.

T-shirt / shirt

A t-shirt or a shirt is usually worn under the micro-fleece. This garment is often considered one of the most important for a hiker as it is often directly in contact with the skin. There are many fabrics for this type of t-shirts, from microfibre, to thermal fabrics, to simple cotton. Even in this case, the most important feature for this type of garment is breathability! We would not want to find a sweat soup t-shirt in contact with our skin after just an hour’s walk! Personally I find myself very well with the Salewa brand shirts, which I consider very comfortable, resistant to tearing and able to remain absolutely dry even after considerable sweating. Absolutely to avoid the simple cotton t-shirts: they immediately soak with perspiration and stop transpiring, making us sweat even more. In these cases it is better to have a spare t-shirt to replace the wet one once the physical effort is over.


Even for the pants, what is said for the shell is valid. Being an “external” layer it must be tearproof, windproof, waterproof and breathable. There are really many more or less quality models on the market. Personally I recommend those who have the ability to peel off the lower part of the leg (making them short pants), so as to make them go well even for warmer periods. Absolutely to avoid cotton pants or jeans.
Socks: Generally the socks are the most underrated clothes. As a result, at the end of the day. we often find ourselves having dry clothes and socks impregnated with perspiration and constantly cold feet. This is because the feet, closed in shoes, sweat a lot and impregnate the socks of moisture. Also in this case, therefore, it is preferable to choose socks with breathable materials so as to have dry feet even after several hours of walking. A good pair of quality socks cost around $ 20, all inexpensive spending when you consider how useful they can be.

How to light a fire



Fire in both survival and normal everyday life is essential.

The fire is useful for a thousand uses such as: cooking food, heating (especially in cold climates), boiling water or food to eliminate them from bacteria, keep predators or annoying insects away, heat the water to wash, signal, dry clothes etc …

When you leave for an adventure in the wild nature it is always useful to start bringing with you a lighter or some matches (better if windproof and anti-humidity), or a flint or bar in magnesium.


The firesteel is always recommended in survival guides as it always works and runs out over very long periods, to use it just rub the knife or any other tool in steel against the bar in order to create sparks that with the right bait lighter a fire.


To create waterproof matches, immerse them in liquid paraffin or nail varnish.


If you find flint stones (pyrite, flint …) you can use the sparks created by their rubbing to set fire to the bait, or by rubbing against a steel tool like a knife.


If the sun is warm, the power of its rays can be exploited using a lens.

You can use a magnifying glass, a spectacle lens, the lens of a watch face, the lens of a camera, the bottom of a bottle or any other glass object that can concentrate the sun’s rays. Lighting the fire with this method requires patience and steady hand, the time it takes to turn it on depends on: from the area in which you are (in an equatorial area you will do very quickly), from the power of the rays and also from the weather. The bait that you will use with this method should be as dark as possible (dark colors capture more sunlight than clear ones).


The bait is of primary importance for starting the fire and for setting it must be dry, soft and soft and possibly dry.

For the bait you can use: mosses, lichens, bark splinters, dry leaves, fuzzy flowers like thistles, dry grass, grasses, wild panicles, dry dung of herbivores, marrow of plants like elderberry.

It is always advisable to keep the bait in a dry place and keep a stock ready to light a fire.

If you have some alcohol or gas, wet the bait to start combustion faster.

Resin of pine cones and pine logs are excellent fuels, as is the resinous birch oil.

Once a fire is accessed, baits can be prepared for future ignitions, burning parts of marrow or fibrous plants, dry wood and dung. They are allowed to carbonise on the fire and then stored in a dry place.


Friction method: The principle of the bow is based on friction, that is on the friction between two parts between which friction is present.

The bow is a very ancient method of ignition and requires patience, time and effort.

Take a green branch (flexible but resistant) at least 50 cm long and tied at either end a rope, a lace or a strap not so tight, so as to create an arch.

Wrap the rope around a stick of about 30 cm with a diameter of 2cm (not resinous) the driest and hardest possible. The stick will act as a drill, then create a point at one end.

In order not to hurt your hand and to put pressure on the stick, cover the top point with a hard wood or a convex stone or a shell or a shell.

Now prepare a dry wooden board at least 1 cm thick, which will serve as a base.

Never use resinous wood such as pine but orient yourself to wood such as willow, poplar …

On the wider side of the tablet dug in the upper part a shallow hole (at least 1 cm from the edge), while in the lower part corresponding to the hole make an inverted V-shaped groove, which will serve to collect the dust produced by the rubbing of the bow with the table.

Just in this blackish powder produced, the spark will form.

Insert the stick in the hole of the table and holding it steady with the foot rotate the drill moving back and forth the bow (as if it were sawing).

When you smell combustion, increase the speed.

The drill runs better if lubricated with a little bit of grease. If it is too stiff it is necessary to twist a little rope around it again.

While making the movement do not stop otherwise the area will cool immediately and you should start again.

When enough blackish dust has accumulated in the V-shaped incision, blow slowly into the groove and bring the bait closer together. When the flame is created, add more bait and then the firewood.

The knife for survival


For all those who move for a camping away from Europe, for a trip away or in a hostile area without the comforts and comforts we are accustomed to, it is always advisable to use suitable equipment and clothing for the area in which you will go.
An indispensable item that should never be missing in your surviving equipment is definitely the famous THOUSAND USES KNIFE OF SURVIVAL.

Owning a cutting tool in a survival situation can certainly make the difference, in the market there are different types and costs and it is easy to get lost in the purchase. We can affirm that in case of necessity any tool able to cut will be useful (even a table knife). But if we want to buy one we must take into account some things, one in the first place is:

What should we do? Fishing, hunting, mushrooms, survival

but also

Where should we go? Forest, mountain, savannah, jungle …

Surely the factors to be taken into consideration, besides what we want to spend, are:

  • Blade material: among the best materials we find stainless steel (inox) and carbon (carbon steel). The blade must be possibly anti-rust; as far as stainless steel blades are concerned, this problem does not exist (this type of steel does not rust if not in contact with harmful products), while iron and carbon rust.

The carbon blade is light and very resistant, it sharpens quickly but does not keep sharpening for a long time. The stainless steel blades, on the other hand, are more hygienic, sterile and resist corrosion in the most diverse conditions.

  • The hardening of the blade: the tempering is very important as it determines the hardness and consistency of the blade, therefore also the duration and the quality of the sharpening. If a blade is not hardened sufficiently, it will not sharpen well but it will be more flexible, if it has been hardened too much it will tend to chip easily or break if used improperly (for example to pry) but it will be harder and sharper. Metal hardening during production can be controlled using consistency scales. The Rockwell scale is used to determine the hardness of the materials, for example a blade between 55 and 58 Rock-well (HRC) is a good compromise for a hunter or hunter knife. There is also a Vickers scale to measure hardness.
  • Shape, size, dimensions and weight: a good knife should be light but strong, not too large, comfortable and not too long. Although these specifications may not be good for some uses; for example in tropical areas machetes are used (60 cm and more of blade) and large double-edged blades. The ideal size of a blade is from 8 cm up to 15 cm max 20.

To avoid that the knife breaks in half at the height of the handle it is always better to choose knives where the blade and the handle are a whole (ie a single piece). The shank must be coated with a resistant and handy handle, better if screwed and not glued so that it can easily be replaced. The wooden handle is certainly the most proposed even if there are materials such as micarta, g10, g11, FR-4 and FR-5 equally excellent. Avoid knives with metal or poor plastic grips. The knife must adapt perfectly to the shape of your hand to be as effective as possible (this is also why the choice of the knife is a totally subjective and personal thing).


if we want a multi-purpose knife that includes useful accessories for survival; we can opt for a product that contains at least most of these objects:

  • compass,
  • water purifying tablets (optional),
  • fishing gear (nylon thread and hooks),
  • windproof and anti-humid phosphorus matches,
  • tinderbox,
  • hacksaw,
  • blade,
  • altimeter (optional),
  • mini harpoon (optional),
  • mini lance (optional),
  • tourniquet (very useful, for example hooked to a forked branch you can make a
  • slingshot to hunt small animals),
  • whistle,
  • magnifying glass to light the fire (optional),
  • gavel (optional),
  • shear cutter,
  • screwdriver (optional),
  • stone for sharpening or sandpaper,
  • needle and suture thread,
  • scalpel (optional),
  • sewing set (needle, a few meters of cotton or nylon thread, some buttons, a safety pin).
  • magnesium bar (produces sparks to ignite the kelp by rubbing against the blade of the knife),
  • morse alphabet table with international ground-air signaling code,
  • “ELIOGRAPH” signal mirror (even if the blade of the clean knife can still reflect the sunlight),
  • behind the scabbard can also be printed a ruler with different units of measurement useful for any measurements,
  • rope (at least 10 meters, tied around the sheath),
  • in addition to the knife, an additional multi-purpose blade can be crammed into the
  • scabbard, which can be used as a harpoon, corkscrew, cutters; and if holes are present, they can be used to tie it to a stick and create a lance.

A complete knife should contain almost all these objects crammed between scabbard and inside handle.

The sheath, for example, can be covered with a military lanyard, perhaps useful for replacing worn shoe laces, making traps, making ligatures useful for the construction of various tools, to build a shelter. Remember that knowing how to do knots well is very important, take a look at this article: how to make knots.
The blade can also have a serrated part on one side, which can come in handy as a saw.

A good knife has a non-slip handle and a watertight upper compartment to put inside objects that can be damaged in contact with water (objects can also be placed in plastic bags with hermetic seal).

In a sudden survival situation we could hardly be equipped with a thousandusi knife, in this case the need sharpens the wits. Depending on where we are we can make a cutting tool by sharpening a bamboo splinter or using a pointed stone. Waste can be an excellent exploitable resource, now with global pollution we can find trash in every part of the globe, for example from a can you get a very useful sharpened sheet as well as from a bottle you can get a shard of sharp glass . The basic rule is to observe, have an eye for detail, use ingenuity but also imagination … with these premises we can exploit the territory around us and the elements inside it at will.


– Store the blade carefully, removing stains, organic or vegetable sticky substances and rust (a rusty knife loses its effectiveness in cutting, also if neglected rust will literally eat your knife).

– Always keep the knife clean, dry and sharp and do not use it on things that could damage it or break it.

-Do not leave it in contact with the ground, moisture and dirt will ruin it.

– Keep away from the fire.

– We can clean it using ash or sand. Always clean it after each use will greatly increase the longevity of our knife, after each use clean the blade, dry it and close it again. Put some oil on the joints; in this way the blades will open more easily.

– At hard temperatures the blade tends to become more fragile, keep it close to the heat of the body to prevent it from freezing, avoid sharp blows against hard objects or the blade will break. Also avoid sudden changes in temperature (if you put a frozen blade on the flames, it could break). If the blade is too cold you could stick to the skin, if you do not try to pull the object because you would tear the skin causing large wounds, in this case the ideal solution and urinate or pour a hot liquid gradually on the area until you off.

– Sharpening must be moderate but done frequently.

To sharpen you can use a stone, the blade of another knife or anyway a metal object. The best stone to use is the porous one (gray and siliceous pebbles are better than quartz, for example the smooth stones taken in a river bed are excellent), if instead you have a professional stone for sharpening or two ceramic rods (a raw and polished) well come. Before sharpening lubricate the blade using vegetable oil, water or saliva is also good.

– If the handle breaks or the blade breaks, do not despair; in a survival situation nothing is thrown away; the blade, even if broken in half, can still be exploited to make cuts, while if the handle yields it can be replaced by inserting the blade into a piece of hard and resistant wood or rebuilding it by heating plastic, provided that you find it.

Complete survival kit


This list is purely indicative, the equipment can change depending on the area in which you venture, from personal availability, from the number of people you are in, from the vehicle you are traveling (car, camper), from the type of activity that will be played, etc.



  • Multi-purpose knife (example survival knife)
  • Waterproof, windproof and anti-humidity matches,
  • or Refillable lighter, or Zippo with petrol,
  • Steel (or firesteel, recommended as very practical and functional).
  • Magnifying glass to light the fire.
  • Compass and map of the place (it is important to know how to correctly use the compass and topographic map otherwise you will not need anything, see orientation); or GPS (technology makes life easier, even if batteries have their limits).
  • Fishing kit (hooks, seals, nylon thread, synthetic baits)
  • Heliograph (it is a reflecting mirror for signaling)
  • Whistle to request aid in the mountains
  • Wanting laser pointer
  • Candle (useful for carrying the fire without turning it off, light, signal, in extreme cases you can also eat)
  • Pencil and notepad to take notes and keep notes on time and travel.
  • Plastic bags (useful for various uses such as waterproofing equipment, better if biodegradable).
  • Aluminum blanket (manages to maintain 80% of body heat, reflects heat from the fire, isolates from moisture, protects from rain and water, thanks to its reflective power can be seen from above or used as a Also folded heliograph takes up very little space).
  • Detergent for hands and face.
  • Soap or soap powder
  • Razor blade
  • Needle, threads, buttons and safety pins
  • Twine, rope, laces
  • Repellent for insects (especially against mosquitoes)
  • Sun protection
  • Waterproof torch (low consumption or dynamo)
  • Water bottle – Gavetta
  • Pills or tablets for chlorine or iodine water purification (also called potable tablets or tablets: see here).
  • GSM cellular phone or satellite phone (possibly with charger for cellular charge with dynamo crank), see here.
  • Digital wristwatch (trekking model) with altimeter, temperature indicator ° C- ° F, barometer, alarm clock, stopwatch, compass, waterproof and backlit.
  • Small Swiss army knife (Victorinox type) with file, nutcracker, pliers, removable support for screwdriver bits, scissors, wrenches, corkscrew, open boxes, tweezers:

Depending on the availability of cargo also:

Not all these objects are indispensable.

  • Sleeping bag
  • Bivouac sack (bivi-bag)
  • Ax, wire saw (less cumbersome) and small hammer
  • Pickaxe or picozza
  • Two 10 cm nails (for the most disparate uses: traps, shelter …)
  • Wire for trapping
  • Mousetrap
  • Sling
  • Screwdriver, wire cutter shears
  • Machete (useful in the jungle)
  • Harpoon or fishing rifle
  • Red flares or smoke flares
  • Cyalume (fluorescent bars)
  • Thick rope, rope with carabiners
  • Hammock
  • Glasses with interchangeable lenses, completely dismountable and easily cleaned (if you go to the mountains use a model with certified 4 protection).
  • If you wear eyeglasses, bring a spare pair
  • Waterproof tarpaulin
  • Gas stove
  • Lantern
  • Combustible tablets
  • Paper from aluminum, transparent film and Scottex paper
  • Handkerchiefs and toilet paper
  • Towel and wet wipes
  • Foldable camping shovel
  • Saucepan, glass, cutlery and plate (all completely in steel)
  • One liter kettle (diesel, petrol, oil)
  • Strobe light
  • Binoculars
  • Purifier – camping water purifier (microfilter – microfilter):


  • Potassium permanganate tablets (KMnO4 can be useful for various purposes: dissolved in clean water provides an antiseptic solution to disinfect wounds – few grains in a liter of water, left to settle for more than half an hour, make it potable – scattered and stirred on the snow produces a purple red color visible from very far away – mixing half a teaspoon with one of sugar is obtained, rubbing the mixture with a stick, a sort of hot charcoal, great to light the bait for the fire). ATTENTION: respect the dosages and instructions for its use as it can be harmful. PS: now it is difficult to find because its marketing has been limited by the EEC as it can also be used for the refining of cocaine.
  • American pattern adhesive tape
  • Wanting sandpaper
  • Indelible pen (can be used to write on any type of surface, to remember important things or leave messages and directions)
  • Stock of mineral water, freeze-dried energy rations (eg pemmican, BP-5), food bars and snacks.
  • Cooler bag, thermos
  • Hot water bottle
  • Anti-mosquito tent
  • Insulating sheet, blanket or mat
  • Nail clipper
  • Rubber tube
  • Books and manuals on survival (first aid, poisonous animals and plants, survival rules)
  • Emergency radio with solar dynamo (optional)
  • Sheet for signaling (optional)
  • Table with Morse alphabet, international code, emergency numbers, body signaling and ground-air signaling methods.
  • If in possession, also carry a pistol or rifle with ammunition, blank cartridges and signaling rockets.


The equipment should be able to fit all in a backpack that should not be too heavy or uncomfortable for the back.

Remember to bring only the equipment you need and not to fill the backpack with unnecessary and superfluous things.

The weight of the backpack should never exceed 35% of our body weight, the equipment inside it must be strictly selected. The ideal weight should be a quarter of our mass.

For sale you can find lots of backpacks for survival with strategic sections, rich in pockets, waterproof, removable like those of soldiers etc …

Remember to waterproof objects that could be damaged with water such as clothes, medicines, etc. (seal in plastic bags or watertight containers).

Balance the weight of the backpack and make sure that any objects do not bother you on the back.

Put the things you need less at the bottom of the backpack, while keeping the most important things at hand.

Part of the equipment can also be carried on (survival belt tied to the belt, ready-to-wear items in the pockets of trousers, etc.).

Recommended maximum weight: from 20 to 30Kg.

Ideal weight: not over 15 kg.


Complete First Aid Kit

Remember to always check the expiration date of each drug before bringing it back. Temperatures that are too hot or too cold can shorten the life of a drug (for example, an antivperous serum resists a few months out of the refrigerator, while some drugs with heat are dissolved).

The first aid kit must be light and is purely oriented to the type of area and activities that will be done. If you are traveling with a vehicle geared towards a complete first aid kit, if you are traveling with a backpack, choose a basic first aid kit that is packed in a possibly waterproof case (if there is the possibility that the kit can get wet , and the case is not watertight, close the kit in an intact plastic bag making a nice knot tight).

  • Tourniquet
  • Plasters of various shapes and sizes
  • Bandages and gauze
  • Scalpel, needle and thread (sterile)
  • Pliers, scissors
  • Sterile single-use syringes
  • Absorbent cotton
  • eyewash
  • Decongestant for the ear
  • Aspirin
  • Pads for seasickness or car sickness
  • Antiallergic tablets
  • Dextrose pills
  • Cortisone
  • Polyvitaminic tablets
  • Mercurochrome (for disinfection and cleaning of wounds and as a healing wound for minor wounds, burns or abrasions)
  • Iodine tincture (antiseptic for external use and also useful for the disinfection of surface water 3 drops per liter, leaving to act for 30 minutes, also useful for the treatment of light radioactivity contamination)
  • Protective spray for dressing wounds, injuries and sores
  • Instant ice
  • Pomate (for sprains, burns and bruises)
  • Painkillers and anti-inflammatories
  • Antifungals (for yeasts and hyphae)
  • Sedatives, painkillers and cardio-respiratory analectics
  • Analgesics (to decrease pain)
  • Antipyretics (to lower fever)
  • Paracetamol (analgesic and antipyretic action)
  • Broad-spectrum antibiotics
  • Antibiotics for intestinal and anti-depressive infections
  • Antispasmodics (for diseases or syndromes of the gastro-enteric apparatus)
  • Antihistamines (for allergic manifestations)
  • Syrup
  • Spray or sore throat tablets
  • Serums (eg antivipera)
  • poison extractor
  • Hand gel with amuchina
  • Denatured alcohol
  • Ammonia
  • Toothbrush and toothpaste
  • Dental floss
  • Thermometer
  • Pressure meter
  • Portable defibrillator
  • Mouthpiece for mouth to mouth breathing
  • Lip stick
  • Protective cream SPF 50+ in case of intense UV


The clothes change a lot from area to area. The basic rules that must be followed are: practicality, comfort, resistance, washability and breathability.

Garments should be lightly soiled, loose and of good fabric.

  • Durable cotton trousers and jeans with a tactical belt
  • Long-sleeved cotton t-shirts
  • At least two cotton shirts
  • Light shoes or boots with spare laces
  • Various pairs of socks (light and heavy)
  • Heavy sweater
  • Windbreaker with hood (if possible in Gore-Tex)
  • Cotton shorts shorts
  • Cap, headgear, balaclava
  • Waterproof cape
  • Neckerchief (against dust or sun)
  • Leather work gloves
  • Ski gloves (in cold weather), mitts
  • Snowshoes
  • Poncho

THE FOULARD: this accessory can be very useful; in addition to using it as protection from the sun as a headgear, or to retain the sweat of the forehead, it can also be used as a protection against dust, to protect the throat from cold or wind, as a support to hang a wounded arm around the neck make a hemostatic ligation and to request help moving it up and down.

Some Useful Advice for the survival kit:

– Wearing a tactical jacket can cram equipment for survival in the various pockets.

– In the jungle and in the desert, prefer clothes such as long-sleeved shirts and long trousers to avoid burns, insect bites and wounds caused by brambles and thorny plants.

– In harsh climates, cover hands, feet, head and ears well. For the body to protect itself by wearing multiple layers and creating various inner tubes between the garments, if you do not have t-shirts put a newspaper or plastic bags under the shirt.

– The feet should always be kept dry and comfortable (stop often to remove pebbles and dust from shoes). If the boots are wet, wear a plastic bag.
– Clean garments are more efficient from the insulating and thermal point of view than the dirty ones.

– In harsh climate never keep your clothes wet on you while in very hot and humid weather never take them off.

– A dry but dry garment is better than a wet one, so in case of soaking clothes: take them off, squeeze them and let them freeze on the snow, finally remove the ice and put them on, you will have removed moisture from the clothes.

– To march on the snow better wrap around the shoe an impermeable sheet.

– To walk on the ice without slipping insert the socks over the boots.

– In the desert always cover the head and the nape with a piece of damp and clear cloth to avoid any insolation.

– In areas with the surface completely covered with snow, wear glasses or cover your eyes with a bandage to which you have made two holes for the eyes, to avoid blindness from snow.

– To clean clothes you can use the ash of the bivouac.


  • Identity card
  • Passport
  • Tax code and health card
  • Driver’s license
  • Bank account
  • Depending on the country: visa (of stay, tourist …), immigration form, return ticket, revenue stamp etc …
  • Vaccination booklet
  • Sheet with phone number of family members and blood group.
  • Also bring cash (in small denomination notes) and if you own it, an international credit card.

To conclude, remember that you should not save money by buying products of poor quality, especially for the most important equipment and clothing, better spend some extra money and have equipment that can save your life in unfavorable conditions:

How to build a shelter



An essential rule that underlies survival is to build a shelter and light a fire before nightfall. Once you have done these two things you can move away to look for water and food.

The construction of a makeshift shelter depends very much on the availability of the surrounding environment and on the person’s capacities.

Depending on where you are there are basic rules to follow to quickly improvise a simple and effective shelter.

A good shelter allows us to sleep better and then rest our body and mind. Being able to rest at least a couple of hours to regain strength is very important in terms of survival allows you to think better and put you in a positive psychological state.


Always choose a safe area, assessing possible dangers and unforeseen events.

Prefer a shelter behind a rock or a rise so you can keep an eye on only one road.

Avoid shelters near slopes or lands at risk of falling rocks.

If you are the victim of an accident, use the disaster vehicle as a shelter or use its parts to build one. Pay attention to the tanks if they are ignited or at risk of fire.

If you wait for help, always try to build the shelter in an area clearly visible to emergency teams and keep a fire lit or more fires to be glimpsed more.
Before it gets dark it is useful to stock a firewood, and keep it close to the shelter in order to feed the fire by waking up at regular intervals.

Keeping a fire lit near the shelter, as well as signaling the position and heating up in cold climates, will keep feral animals away.

Remember that at night the equator arrives suddenly and in the mountains it gets dark early. In the desert the nights are very cold, due to the strong temperature range between day and night.

If you travel to a campsite always carry a sleeping bag and a waterproof sheet.

In survival equipment there should always be an aluminum isothermal blanket (aluminum emergency blanket). This aluminum cloth is useful for a thousand purposes: it is waterproof, it protects from rain, wind, humidity and snow, it also heats from the cold and protects from the sun as it reflects it, its reflection can be useful to postpone the heat of the fire and to make reporting, also folded takes up very little space.

If you find a natural shelter (cave, cave, crevice, protrusion of a rock, under a tree that a thick foliage, etc.) or artificial (mountain shelter, mine, abandoned vehicle, shack etc.) take advantage of it do not waste time building one.


In very hot climates, building a shelter is useful not only for spending the night but also for sheltering from the sun and finding a bit of refreshment in the shade on the hottest days.

In areas with a lot of vegetation (jungle) the ideal shelter is the raised one (if you own a hammock is perfect), but if you sleep on the ground it is important not to sleep in direct contact with the ground but spread one or more towels or in absence create a bed with branches, twigs and many leaves. It is also advisable to clean the surrounding area so that it is as uniform as possible (to prevent small animals, snakes and other reptiles from approaching and hiding for example in foliage, bushes or grass bundles).

Burning the area around the shelter can be a great way to keep unwanted animals away.

If the area is particularly at risk of storms, do not build the shelter above or near tall and isolated trees.

Never build a shelter in a dry river bed.

If you build a shelter near waterways, rivers and seas, consider a possible flood, high tide, flood, flood or overflow.

Before using a cave as a refuge, carefully check that it is not inhabited by ferocious animals. If the cave is empty but inside you find faeces and fresh food leftovers immediately gone, it means that at any moment the landlord could arrive.

If the area is full of mosquitoes and other annoying little insects: light a fire creating a very thick smoke, use an anti-mosquito repellent, cover the shelter or the hammock with an anti-mosquito net, burnt the dry stools or a termite nest on the fire , wear clothes that cover your whole body like long-sleeved shirts and trousers, also wear light gloves and a cover-up, sprinkle with mud, avoid building a camp near swamps, ponds or marshes.


If the temperature is cold, build a small shelter so that the heat lasts longer and does not get lost inside the shelter itself.

It is very important not to fall asleep if the shelter does not protect safely from the cold and therefore from freezing and frostbite.

Never fall asleep with wet clothes. In these conditions it is better to stay vigilant and try not to doze off. If the outside temperature is very cold to build an efficient shelter and light a fire nearby, it also helps to put under the clothes a padding of luck using straw, paper, grass and dry leaves …

Never sleep in direct contact with the ground if it is wet or snowy, create an insulating layer with foliage, twigs and twigs.

Light a reflector fire in front of the entrance to the shelter to heat the shelter.

A good shelter in the snow can be created by digging a deep hole or a trench covered with a cloth or vegetation (avoid friable and too soft snow).
Illustrated examples of shelters in snowy areas:

Tip: a lit candle increases the heat inside the shelter.

In an ice area or with temperatures where the air is below zero, you can build an igloo.

Building an igloo takes time and patience, and you need to know what type of snow to use.

The snow to be used for the blocks must be compact, old and beaten by the wind.
Cut the blocks of snow with a long knife or a machete if you do not have them, improvise with a wooden board with sharp edges (measures 30x10x2 cm) or a long piece of hard plastic.

Describe in the ground a circle of the desired diameter (if the igloo is for one person the recommended diameter is less a meter). Beat the snow with your feet to form a uniform floor.

Prepare the blocks in these proportions (length: from 50 to 80 cm, width: from 20 to 30 cm, height: from 15 to 30 cm).

If you do not have a measuring tape, use your SPANNA that is the measure between the thumb and the little finger of the spread hand. The span of an average man is about 20 cm, (it is still advisable to memorize his own measurement).

Begin placing the blocks following a spiral or simply looking increasingly narrow and inclined towards the inside.
The shape of the igloo that must be created must be semi-spherical. The blocks for the igloo can also be obtained from the inside by digging a hole to make the structure deeper.

The taller bricks must be lighter and inclined inwardly so as not to give too much weight to the structure. The last block on top to plug the igloo must be conical and must be placed very carefully so as not to collapse.

Once you have finished the cover, cover the outer surface of the igloo with a layer of fresh snow and close the entrance with a blanket. It is recommended to protect the igloo by creating a small access tunnel.

Once the dome is finished, make an entrance hole in the wall protected by a small vault that serves to prevent the entry of gusts of wind (the hole is useful for the exchange of air). A smaller hole at the top serves as a chimney pot when the fire is lit.

Light the fire in the igloo to melt the inside walls; if the walls start to drip, let in some cold air, removing the blanket from the entrance.

Even if the outside temperature is very cold, the hot red embers inside will make the environment warm and welcoming.

IMPORTANT: In an igloo you can hardly capture the external sounds (the ice is a bad conductor of sound as well as the snow), so you may not hear the rescue (eg airplane noise, screaming).

To build a solid and safe shelter you will undoubtedly need ropes, but it is not enough, you will also need to know how to make simple but resistant knots; I suggest you read the following chapter: STRUCTURE AND NODES.

How to find water in extreme situations


The man is made up of about 60% of water, and normally must take from 2 to 3 liters per day. It should be borne in mind that the demand for water increases, in the presence of hot or humid climate and fatigue, even up to 5-8 liters per day.

In case of survival it is essential to be able to drink at least 1 liter of water a day, rationing it and drinking it in small sips, first wetting the lips to make the most of every drop.

Water is synonymous with life if you can resist without eating even up to 40 days, without water you can only last a couple of days in conditions of rest.


Even if you are in extreme survival situations, NEVER EVER DRINK:

  1. Alcoholic beverages: In cold weather, drinking alcohol can give a sense of warmth at first, but then you have a more intense body cooling than you had before drinking.
  2. In hot weather, however, dehydrates the body. Drinking alcohol also decreases mental and motor skills as well.
  3. Urine: Containing waste from our body is seriously discouraged to drink their own urine or that of animals.
  4. Blood: can cause diarrhea, infections, gastro-intestinal problems or other metabolic problems.
  5. Sea water: contains too much salt, in case of lack of water you can resist longer without drinking or drinking sea water because salt water dehydrates and causes kidney damage.
  6. Gasoline or chemical compounds (such as diluents, detergents …)
  7. Stagnant water of ponds, pools …
  8. Ice or snow (we would consume unnecessary heat of our body, better dissolve it in a saucepan or in the absence of fire put it in a dark container)
  9. Whitish liquid, milky sap of some plants (particularly bright and bitter in color, it could be poisonous).
  10. Dirty water with foam and bubbles and nauseating smell.
  11. Water where there are dead animals inside.
  12. Water of strange color or where the surrounding vegetation is dead or missing.


Never drink cold water if the body is hot..

NOT SMOKING! Smoke removes liquids and vitamins from the body.

The urine is formed with the waste substances of the body, but in extreme situations, if no water source is found, it can be drunk. However, consider urine as a last resort.

Water can transmit all sorts of viruses and microbes.

Symptoms resulting from the contamination of contaminated water are: dysentery, severe and prolonged bloody diarrhea, fever, weakness, viruses and diseases (typhus, cholera, etc.) or the presence of parasites in the body.



With limited water, start drinking after 12 or 24 hours to make the most of the water in our body.


You can collect rainwater in clean containers (the more you have more water you can collect). You can use as a container anything that is able to retain water (bark or large leaves, coconuts, plastic bags, waterproof clothing and so on …). If the collected water is dirty it is necessary to boil it or purify it before drinking it.

To collect rainwater, you can tie a t-shirt or piece of cloth to a tree, so that the end of the cloth slopes towards any type of container.

You can attach an absorbent cloth just above the shoes to collect rainwater in the grass.

You can build a canopy with bamboo, placing a horizontal channel to collect water in a small pot.

You can make a hole and spread a large waterproof cloth over it, creating a basin to collect rain water.

Or you can dab a wet surface with a cloth and then wring the contents in a saucepan.

The dew present on plants and stones can be collected with a garment.


To find rivers, lakes and streams you have to follow the points where the vegetation is greener or for example follow the animals (birds, mammals, bees, ants, a path recently beaten by the animals or the presence of excrement near a crack).
If you are surrounded by a mountain range, water usually collects in the less inclined base as the flow is less rapid.
The caves are created of water, inspecting them to the bottom you can find water streams.
Gorge and narrow crevasses can give life to small springs.
AVOID to dig into porous and crumbly soils as the water accumulates too deep in those cases.


Digging in certain places (beds of dry rivers, dry lakes, valleys, wetlands, green areas …) you could be able to accumulate water inside holes or be able to concentrate small streams of water; in these cases, however, it is necessary to boil or purify the water.

There are some plants that love water such as willows, elders, reeds, water lilies. You can try an excavation in their vicinity to find water.

In the greenest and brightest grassy areas where the stalks are tall and fleshy, you can try a digging for sure the soil is wet and there is the possibility of finding water. Fresh water can often be found behind the sand dunes along the sea.


Leave the mud to stand for half a day and then boil it for 10 minutes or alternatively filter with the filtering technique (explained later in the article).
Where to dig in a swamp?

You can get water from many plants, fruits, legumes, and plants.

For example coconut, watermelon contain a lot of water, but also the fruits of edible plants contain a good percentage of water (lemon, mango, avocado, pineapple, kiwi, oranges, and so on …).

Some plants store both water internally and externally (the top of a cactus can be cleaned and squeezed).

The green bamboo canes if bent can provide water.


You can use a cloth or a bag to drink condensed water on surfaces such as glass, metal, plant leaves.


Put a plastic bag around a green tree branch (see photo), seal and hang a stone or a wood at the base to drain the water, obtained through condensation, downwards.

Mount the breathable bag in the morning and collect the water at the end of the day.

Use a different bush every day.



With this system in 24 hours you can get from 0.5 liters to 2 liters of water. Doing more holes even more.

Dig a hole deep and about 1 meter wide, place at the bottom a container with a tube coming out of the excavation (the straw will serve to avoid disassembling all the equipment every time you want to consume water, however if you do not have a little tube can be done even less).

Fill the bottom of the hole with vegetation rich in water content (wet leaves …). Cover with a sheet (about 2X2 m) in nylon or plastic, blocking the sides with soil and stones so as not to allow air to pass.

Finally, a concave shape is made to the cloth by placing a stone in the center.

The purifier works both day and night and produces distilled water as the temperature inside the hole rises and the steam produced by the vegetation sticks to the sheet which is colder and the condensation slips into the container in the form of droplets.



Never drink sea water directly, the salt it contains, in the long run, can even lead us to death; it is however possible to boil it and collect the steam generated by boiling with your clothes and then wring them out with a waterproof cloth or a plastic bag; however there are substances suitable for desalting sea water.

Solar energy desalinator: Link

Another method to purify salt water is to fill a hole of seawater and throw in hot stones, the steam produced must be collected with a garment or cloth, and then squeezed into a container to be drunk.

INFO: Distilled water has no taste. Transfer it from one container to another or mix quickly to enrich it with oxygen and make it tastier.


Use substances such as iodine or chlorine (2% iodine tincture: 5 drops in a liter of clear water, 10 drops in dark water, with this method wait at least 30 minutes before drinking; potable tablets or tablets: 1 tablet for clear water , 2 for dark water). Tablets or tablets to

Boil in a saucepan for 10 minutes. (CLASSICAL METHOD)
With the hot rocks: (see video)

Use the filtering method (ie, to filter the water through several layers) before watering the water to clean it from dirt and other impurities.

Inside a container pierced at the bottom there are several layers (starting from the bottom) of gravel or polished pebbles, pulverized vegetal carbon obtained from the combustion of wood, sand or earth, very fine and finally again gravel. If you do not own a container you can use three sheets tied to a 1 meter tripod made of 3 woods. On the towels put in this order (from above) gravel, coal and sand, or always in this order grass, sand, coal.

Then boil for 10 minutes.

In the absence of containers, a sock can be used. Fill it with charcoal, soil and fine sand. After filtering, a drop of urine can be added and the mixture stirred. Once the water has been filtered out of impurities, boil it to make it drinkable.

Purify water with solar energy:
-Solar water Disinfection (also known as SODIS): Link
– There is also a recent invention: Solarball.

Principle of Inverse Osmosis: Link

With ultraviolet rays:
It is a small tool that can be truly providential. It works thanks to ultraviolet rays (UV) that in a short time can purify the water.

It is a small tool that can be truly providential. It works thanks to ultraviolet rays (UV) that in a short time can purify the water.

Principle of silver ions with a pocket ceramic filter: Link


Where the animals drink, the water is certainly harmless even if there is no safety that it is drinkable.
By chewing on a blade of grass or sucking a wet pebble, you can relieve your thirst for a while.
If you do not have at least one liter of water a day in a hot climate do not eat, this serves to save the body’s water reserves.
In the open sea the dehydration of the body takes place more quickly (the causes are: wind, saltiness and sunlight that reflect on the sea).
In addition to fatigue, the arid, humid, torrid or windy climate, stress and fear also contribute to sweating a lot and thus dehydrating the body.
To limit the consumption of water in the wet and humid areas to march in the less hot hours (sunrise, sunset, night) and at a regular pace.
If you have little water, ration it like this:

DAY 1: do not drink.
FROM THE SECOND DAY TO THE FIFTH: drink at least 400 ml
FROM THE FIFTH DAY: from 55 to 225 ml depending on how much water you still have and the climate.